…. And NOW we are cruising! (May 18, 2024)

On Tuesday, May 14, 2024, we departed Ellös for Fredrikstad, Norway (72 nm north of Ellös) with various stops along the way–stops that we decided upon the previous night. Our only agenda is to get to Fredrikstad by early next week to export the boat by documenting that we left Sweden. Exporting the boat saves us a large tax bill to Sweden, and it is appropriate because we are a “yacht in transit” that is world cruising. While in Fredrikstad, Norway we will have a Hydrovane installed, a mechanical self-steering device that keeps the boat on course set to a wind angle. It’s great for sailing because it does not use electricity.

Since May 14, we’ve gone to three harbors: Smögen, Gluppö, and Fjǟllbacka. We’ve had mostly light winds, ranging from no wind to 10-15 knots. Almost each route we’ve taken has involved motoring (without using sails) and navigating areas with many rocks. The charts seem to be very well marked. In the more open areas, we’ve sailed and are learning to use our electric furlers and winches. They are really great for adjusting sails as the wind changes. And May is shaping up to be warm and pleasant! Being out on the water is much cooler than being on shore, but it’s been warm enough that we’ve been able to remove our jackets for some of the time. Both of us have even gotten a bit sunburned on our faces. We are likely to see 76°F in Fredrikstad, Norway next week. We’ll have to get more sunscreen!


Smögen is an old fishing village that is now a popular spot for tourists. Many Swedes and Norwegians have summer homes in Smögen. We visited for two nights and tied up to the wall of the marina, which is a promenade along restaurants and stores. It was very quiet, however, because it is not quite summer here and most of the shops and restaurants aren’t open yet; many were preparing to open the upcoming weekend.


Because we tied up in a town and at a marina for our first two nights cruising, we decided to anchor in a more natural setting. Gluppö is a very protected anchorage, although a bit deep at 10 meters (30 feet). Including Hokukea, seven boats were anchored there that night.


Fjǟllbacka is a very picturesque old fishing town. It is somewhat famous because movie star Ingrid Bergman used to visit regularly. It is also home to Camilla Läckberg, author of a number of crime novels set in Fjǟllbacka. We tied up for two nights alongside a pier in a nice little guest harbor in the main part of town. We found a small and well-stocked chandlery along the waterfront and purchased a number of items that we needed (lines and hardware to make a bridal for raising the dinghy on our davits, a painter for the dinghy, lines for attaching to mooring balls, etc.)

3 thoughts on “…. And NOW we are cruising! (May 18, 2024)”

  1. Laura Wittig

    I’m sorry what language are you writing in? I just don’t have your technical know how. Anyways you two are amazing!! I especially love this last picture.

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