Caledonian Canal
Inverness Marina is directly adjacent to the entrance to the Caledonian Canal. Transiting the canal avoids the need to sail through the treacherous Pentland Firth that runs between Scotland and the Orkney Islands to the north. The Caledonian Canal is 60 miles in length and consists of 29 locks, 10 swing bridges, and 4 aqueducts. Boats usually spend about 5 days going through the canal. It cuts through the Scottish Highlands from north east (Inverness) to central west (Corpach/Fort William) Scotland. The canal actually includes several lakes, among which is the 20-mile long Loch Ness. The Scottish Canals Caledonian Canal Guide has lots of great information about the history, geography, and environment of the canal.
Torrey and Sara Lawrence left us while we were in Inverness Marina. Adam and I took a walk over to the “sea lock,” the lock between the Beauty Firth (the sea outside of the Inverness Marina) and the Caledonian Canal to talk with the lock keeper about the process of entering the canal and the first locks– our plan for the next day. We went to see the lock keeper at low tide because we figured he wouldn’t be busy then (boats can’t enter the canal at low tide due to shallow water). The lock keeper was welcoming and enthusiastic. He explained the process clearly, told us what time to leave our slip in Inverness Marina, and informed us that he would meet us at the sea lock and assist us with our lines. Our anxiety dropped tenfold after meeting with him. What a great start to our Caledonian Canal adventure!
We left Inverness at the time indicated by the lock keeper. MJ was motoring slowly (about 4 knots) because Adam was moving lines and fenders in preparation for our first lock. MJ glanced at our speed when we were out of the marina and was surprised to see that we were moving at 9 knots due to current that runs through a narrows just before Inverness Marina! Our Caledonian Canal adventure began by entering the sea lock, crossing through a swing bridge, and going through one lock. This was all within a distance of less than 1/2 mile. The lock keeper was true to his word, and assisted and coached us along. It was a relatively easy process, but was also a bit intimidating as it was our first time tying up alongside a rock wall.
We spent our first few nights on the canal at Seaport Marina, which is also an office for the Caledonian Canal. We waited here for our next guests–Chris, Carolyn, and Flame Naun–to arrive and join us in transiting the Caledonian Canal. Seaport Marina was in a quiet part of Inverness, and just a 15 minute walk from the city. Once the Nauns arrived, we began moving through the canal.
Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness.
Near the western end of the canal.
We exited the Caledonian Canal eight days after we had entered it at Inverness. It was late afternoon, rainy and windy. We tied up at Corpach Marina, just outside the canal. It was an uncomfortable night, as the wind was blowing us hard against the dock.
Dunstaffnage and Oban
The weather at Corpach Marina was much calmer in the morning, so we set off on a 5 1/2 hour motor/sail to a more protected marina (Dunstaffnage) south of Corpach and 4 miles from Oban. The forecast was for windy and rainy weather, so we wanted to be in a protected space rather than at anchor or on a mooring ball.
Dunstaffnage was somewhat isolated, but we explored nearby Castle Dunstaffnage.
Chris is an avid sailor, but transiting the Caledonian Canal didn’t give him a chance to sail with us, as we had to motor through the Canal. So, on a nice day in Dunstaffnage, we went out for a sail! We sailed on all points of sail, and played with reefing and unreefing the sails using the electric furlers.
We also took a taxi into Oban a couple of times for sightseeing, grocery shopping, and saying our farewell to Chris Naun. Chris caught a train in Oban on his journey home to Hawaii (Oban-Glasgow-London-Los Angeles-Honolulu).
Craobh
Yesterday, the day after Chris left, we left Dunstaffnage for another marina where we could hide out from some nasty weather that was forecasted for our area. We got a slip in Craobh (pronounced, “Croove”) Marina. It was difficult docking, as there was a 12-knot wind blowing us into the boat next to us. The slip is barely large enough for our boat and the neighbor, but we wedged ourselves in! It got very windy during the night (25 – 30 knots), and has been blowing 25 knots + most of the day. We are barely moving in the strong winds (might be a benefit of being so close to our boat neighbor!). Winds are forecast to gust to 37 knots this afternoon and evening, so we are happy to be in this marina.
Craobh collage: The marina, the one-street village of Craobh, MJ enjoying 1/2 lobster at the marina’s little cafe, and a WW I memorial.
Have a good weekend!